Monday, May 29, 2017

First Adventure


So there’s a reason I don’t generally take hiking recommendations from people. Sunday was one of those reasons. Holy heck. So one of my supervisor people, Matt, recommended the Hellroaring Creek Trail if I was looking to ease back into hiking and only do about 14-15 miles. I wanted to keep it in the 12-18 range ideally since I’m not in fantastic shape right now and didn’t want to do too much on my first day. Foreshadowing—that didn’t happen.

Again, I suck at sleeping, so I left the YCC facility by 6:00 and was at the Hellroaring trailhead by 6:45. There’s a giant sign that says something to the effect of “Danger—entering bear area. Travel in groups of 3 or more,” and there’s another paper that lists what to do should you encounter a bear. I counted me, myself, and I as three people and went on my way.

The first stretch of the trail isn’t terrible; there’s a bunch of switchbacks down to the creek and then a giant suspension bridge over it. That part was alright. It was loud; I’ll give it that. It lived up to its name.



The next 5ish miles reminded me of the Honest Trailer for Lord of the Rings. So much roaming, strolling, walking, hiking, and more walking. Super unexciting and not my cup of tea. But not terrible. (If you haven’t seen it, watch the Honest Trailer here.)



Then I crossed into US Forest Service land (Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness) and was extremely disappointed to find no mileage markers/signs, a crapload of trees down across the trails, trails entirely covered in water, and a muddy mess everywhere. There were a few points I considered turning around because I honestly had no flipping clue where I was besides “on the trail.” But I didn’t because quitters suck. There was also one point that I blatantly disregarded what the sign said because my gut told me it was wrong. (Fun fact, I was right and the sign was wrong about which direction to go.) So then I got into this giant snow-covered area and the trail was near impossible to pick out. I kept having flashbacks from that one backpacking trip in the Harden Lake/Smith Meadow area of Yosemite and it was not a good time. Also, by this point I’ve had to cross so many streams that are running really high right now that my boots are starting to get really wet. Then I encounter more snow and it goes up over my boots. Then I encounter more streams where there aren’t rocks or logs or anything to get across so the water also goes up over my boots. Well screw this.
AND THEN I see the grizzly bear, not 50 yards away from me. So like any educated person that reads signs on grizzly behavior, I avert my eyes, stare down at my shoes, and start whistling my go-to song (which just happens to be “If I Only Had a Brain” from Wizard of Oz). Luckily for me, the grizzly decides to run up onto the hill next to me, and then as I continue forward, still whistling away and staring to my left, it runs even further away. Yikes. The external calm that I present is occasionally a façade; this was one of those times I was internally panicking. (And no, I didn’t try to take its picture.)

So far, this hike is going great—my boots are soaked, I just had a grizzly encounter on my first flipping day in Yellowstone, and I have an unknown number of miles left back to the trailhead. And I’m getting hungry because after all, I was only planning on being out here for ~15ish miles, so I should’ve been back to the trailhead by 1300 at the latest. But nooooooo, here I am still.



So I get back to the NPS/Forest Service boundary and the sign says 6.3 miles to the trailhead. I’m thinking, “Great, I can plug this out in about 2 hours.” Well approaching two hours later I still haven’t passed any of the junctions that come before the trailhead. So what the heck. Meanwhile it’s downpouring and I’m getting cranky that I’m either being super slow or the signs are lying to me. Well turns out that sign was wrong. Later I came across a sign that said 8.0 miles to the park boundary and 1.5 miles to the trailhead. So it turns out instead of 6.3, it meant 9.5. Big fat, “screw you” to that stupid sign. I did encounter another person at 1500 though who said she had started from the parking lot about 2.5 hours prior, which I was also not thrilled about. (Luckily it only took me 1.25 hours to get back to the parking lot.) So my hamburgered feet and I made it back to the trailhead by 1615, 9.5 hours after I started. The Forest Service miles are a bit of an estimate, but if I had to guess right now, I’d say it was about a 25 mile day. No bueno. My poor feet are covered in blisters. No surprise there.


When I got back, I had new roommates and more people had arrived. We had a staff cookout at two of my supervisor people’s places—Matt and Mike. I ate a ton—I was extremely hungry; for some reason 3 granola bars, pears, and raisins didn’t replace all of the calories I burned. Weird. Someone brought sweet corn with them, and even though it wasn’t from Iowa—it was semi-decent. We played this weird game called Stump with nails and a hammer. I’m pretty good at hammering nails, but flipping the hammer first is a real challenge. I’ll get the hang of it before the summer is over—don’t you worry. :)

Lessons learned—creek trails still suck. Matt doesn’t do long hikes (he said later). Bear spray works only as a last resort and hopefully I’ll never need to actually use it, but with my record I won’t rule it out. Day One blisters suck.

Until next time my friends, until next time.

Road Trip Out


Alright ya whiners, I’ll start my blog back up so you can read about my shenanigans if you so please. Once again, internet is super limited, so try not to be too nit-picky about the frequency (or lack there of) my posts. As a benchmark, in some areas of the park, I have half a bar of service—in the most areas I have none.

But anyways, so I packed up all my crap and set out in my nice little car for an 1150 mile journey out west to Yellowstone for the summer. By myself. Now, the train last year may have won in number of hours—51.5 vs ~32ish, but it was much less boring for me because I didn’t have to actually drive. I mean, c’mon, I-90 sucks! But I knew that going in so I tried to break it up with some planned stops. Also I totally knew that I’d fall asleep because driving is a real bore. And I played the license plate game (I’m at about 40 with 3 Canadian provinces at the time of writing. If you live in Rhode Island and would like to drive your car to Yellowstone to visit, that’d be much appreciated! And bring your friends from Deleware…)

So anyways, stop number one was at Palisades State Park in South Dakota. The Sioux Quartzite was pretty cool and it was a nice place to sit on a rock in the middle of the river and eat my awesome pb&j lunch. After I stretched my legs for a bit though I got back in my car and started plugging away again.


I stopped at some rest areas along the way, but this one in Chamberlain, SD was particularly memorable because of the giant Sacagawea statue—and I found 7 new license plates there. Major jackpot.


Then there was this random Prairie Dog place close to the Badlands where you could feed prairie dogs food from there store. I just went and looked at them, and naturally took a picture of the “largest concrete prairie dog in the world.” What a cool claim to fame. :) Also right next to there is Minutemen Missile National Historic Site, which was really interesting because I had no idea that there were so many nuclear warheads in South Dakota, especially during the Cold War.



So my next stop was Badlands National Park. Unfortunately, NPS employees getting into other national parks free isn’t a thing. :( Being the person I am, gas was super expensive at the place right outside the park entrance, so I decided that a quarter tank should be enough to get me through to Wall. (It made me a nervous wreck, so I’m not entirely sure the $0.30/gallon that I saved was worth it. Just kidding, it was totally worth it.) Anyways, I went and hiked the Notch Trail, which has a sign that recommends sturdy, closed-toe boots. I looked down at my Tevas and decided I’d be fine. (Hint: I was fine.) There was just this one really weird ladder/cable/log thing that you had to climb up that people were freaking out about. Seriously, it was so much easier than the cables at Half Dome—you’re fine people, you’re fine.


 


So I had originally intended to stay at a backcountry campsite in the Badlands, but storms were predicted and they shut down that road if they get too much rain. So off to Wall I went, to fill up and continue on my way to Rapid City. Finding lodging in Rapid City was a real challenge, seeing as how I’m a cheapskate and all the motels were either full or only had their suites left. So I decided that I didn’t care it was pouring and went and stayed at a campground.

Well, if you’re unaware, I’m terrible at sleeping. And it was cold. And it was raining and loud. And somebody came into the campsite next to me around midnight and was super loud. So I was packed and out of there by 5:00 the next morning and went to Dinosaur Park to watch the sunrise.


 






^Not a dinosaur at Dinosaur Park

It was still pretty early by the time I got to Chapel in the Hills, so I did something super illegal and went through the gate that was closed to take my picture and then leave again. I swear I didn’t hurt anything and I felt terrible the whole time. They should open at 0600 instead of 0800…then my problem would be solved.


A bit later I was in Belle Fourche aka the “Center of the Nation.” I don’t really know how that works out to be the center, but whatever trips their trigger.




Then, what feels like a batrillion miles later because you’re on the same dang stretch of road for flipping ever—I arrived at Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. There was a Hawaii license plate! Little Bighorn was really awesome. Custer sucks. The national cemetery that was there was ginormous and all decorated with flags for Memorial Day. Absolutely amazing. I really liked the Native American memorial that they added to the site—it doesn’t make sense to me that they would commemorate a monument to the U.S. government soldiers that were forcibly removing a group of people that had a right to the land, courtesy of the 1868 treaty—but not commemorate a monument to the group of Native Americans that died defending their land. So that was a good addition in my opinion.


 

 

 



 

 

 


I cut out my last couple stops because I was so sick of driving and really just wanted to get to Yellowstone and get moved in. So I got there around 3:30 MST and got all my stuff moved in. I went and explored the Terraces at Mammoth a little and then planned my adventure for the next day…

Minerva Terrace (I believe.)
From the Overlook

Mound Spring

My home for the next few months :)